Week 2 - Nyungwe

On Monday we travelled out of Nyamasheke to visit the Nyungwe forest for our "weekend." The landscape here was even greener, still as mountainous but the banana plantations were replaced with the lush greens of tea plantations and forest - absolutely stunning. We stayed in a town named Gisakura. There was a slight hiccup with accommodation but everything turned out fine and our host was particularly attentive! During the afternoon we went for a walk as a group through the tea plantations. Strangely, it reminded me of the vineyards - the mountains covered in a patchwork of different greens.

Tuesday warranted an early start; 4am to get into the forest early. It was absolutely worth it. After an hour bouncing around in a jeep watching the sunrise, our ranger, Christopher invited us to get out and explained that we must go quickly as the chimps were not far. We started off on paths. It was humid but relatively easy underfoot. Suddenly he turned off and started cutting his way through the jungle with our group following, desperately trying to keep up. This was not easy. The ground was steep and uneven and branches and leaves were flying at us, apparently from all directions. We stopped, abruptly. Above us was a chimp peering down from a high tree. We were silent, hardly daring to breathe for fear of startling him. Slowly he climbed down and without warning, scampered off into the jungle. After a few seconds we followed. He led us to a family in an idyllic tree. They had made nests for the babies. Christopher said there were eight babies. I definitely saw four. They were playing and stuffing their faces with fruit. We followed the family around for a while, watching them as they interacted. The sound of the family communicating with others in the jungle was phenomenal, piercing through the trees. Truly unforgettable.


We returned to Gisakura and I went to Eagles nest and sat with a soda trying to make sense of the morning. We could hear monkeys around us but, at that time, we didn't see them. Eventually some of the others came back and we decided to go on a tea plantation tour run by Ric. He was so knowledgeable and has led an incredible life. He walked us through forest and tea explaining all stages of tea production but also telling tales of Rwanda. I have no idea how far we walked but it was fascinating.

The next morning my group went further into the jungle to walk the canopy walkway - a series of bridges strung high above the forest. This was scarier than I had anticipated but the views were like nothing else. Our guide sung at us as we crossed to calm everyone's nerves which resulted in a group disney sing off - in harmony.

I think it's safe to say we all thoroughly enjoyed these excursions and the memories will stay with us.

Week 1 - Kigali and Nyamasheke

Week 1 saw a number of challenges. For many, arriving in East Africa was a major culture shock. The temperature, the people, the food, the roads...everything was different. I was pleasantly surprised at how good the road was, then shocked at how poor anything but the main roads are.

Our first day was spent in Kigali, visiting the Genocide Memorial. This gave us all a better understanding of the struggles the country has been through and the struggles it continues to face. It truly is incredible how the country has been rebuilt after such a horrific event. There was a notable sense of sadness and pain as we travelled through the country but this was overshadowed by an incredible sense of optimism and purpose. Everyone was proud of their country and keen to share the successes they have seen and the plans they have for the future.

I was also surprised at just how friendly and welcoming the people were. As our busses drove through town after town we were greeted in the same way. People would stop and stare then a shout of "Mzungu" would ring out. People would wave and children would start to chase the buses cheering, smiles the width of their faces.

Eventually we arrived at our accommodation, Ishara. The view over lake Kivu was simply stunning. Our rooms were simple but we were lucky to have individual en-suite rooms with double beds. I say en-suite: water was intermittent and we regularly resorted to using jerry cans of water for washing etc. But as time went on it started to feel like home. Many people made friends with the local wildlife with fellows sharing rooms with geckos, spiders, frogs and bats! I was lucky to only notice a small cricket.

During our first week we spent time planning, having a language lesson and generally settling in and preparing for the weekend's conferences. We realised that Rwandan cuisine was a little less varied than at home and we grew accustomed to an evening meal of rice, beans, chips and goats. Much excitement happened one evening when peas were served!

Our first conferences went well. Over 200 hungry teachers arrived in time for breakfast of sweet tea and a bread roll. These teachers were so well turned out and cheerful. Some had walked over three hours to be at the conference and had willingly given up two consecutive weekends to take part. Rwanda teachers have a special enthusiasm and passion for their job. Their working conditions are not great with large class sizes (50 or more is not uncommon), little paper and pens and certainly no IT. Teachers work double shifts, often have no lunch and do all of this for a very poor wage. Yet these teachers had walked huge distances to work with us.

We all delivered our sessions, trying to adapt them so they would be as useful as possible, each of us feeling a heightened sense of responsibility to make the project work. Our teachers were thoughtful and receptive and many were willing to challenge us meaning everyone was able to develop. Unfortunately, for some, there was a language barrier as their grasp of English was poor but everyone adapted and found ways to overcome this. My first teaching mentor said that one of the keys to teaching is flexibility - she was so right.

On Sunday night we celebrated completing the first phase. By now the team was very tight-knit and we shared our tales over dinner, keen to get into schools the following week to see our teachers in action.

First update

So I have arrived in Rwanda after some very delayed flights and a lot of time hanging around Nairobi. Kigali was really interesting, particularly the genocide memorial. The city is a mish mash of ultra modern and extreme poverty. After 8 hours on the road we arrived in Nyamasheke. The lake is beautiful and we've enjoyed having PPA on the balcony. Today is a special day as it is the first day we've been able to shower properly. Previously we have been using Jerry cans and a bowl but today there was water in the shower. It was freezing but there was water and nobody is complaining. Tomorrow is the first day in school. We have planned what we hope are some useful sessions for the Rwandan teachers. We shall see...

Last minute nerves

It's the night before. This is a night that I never thought would arrive. I think part of me never truly believed this trip would go ahead. Strange as I've always wanted to do something like this. I just never thought I would be brave enough to get on a plane on my own and travel to a country I know nothing about in a different hemisphere... That rainy Novemeber evening when I was looking out at the rain lashing down and decided to search for an adventure seems like a lifetime away. I completed the application form somewhat pessimistically. I never actually thought they'd say yes!

Like I said, it's the night before and the nerves are building. Stupid things like what if they lose my luggage or what if we don't make that 35 minute connection. These are all things I can do nothing about but they still niggle. I now have 2 different tickets for 2 different flights as well which is somewhat confusing. Hopefully it will all become clear at Heathrow and this time tomorrow I will be in the sky somewhere on the way! Eek!

Flight change - again!

Last night I missed a call from London. It was the airline informing me of another change to my flights. For some reason it now takes longer to fly from Doha to Nairobi so they needed to inform us of this. It wouldn't really be a problem but it only leaves us 35 minutes to transfer to the Kigali flight! We are going to have to be speedy! Fingers crossed we make it.

Packing is hard!

I somehow have to halve what I have! No idea where to begin...and this isn't everything!

Update! I did it and the only thing I forgot was aaa batteries!

Well overdue update

Hello. Wow, I can't quite believe it's nearly time to go. Things have been super busy so apologies for not updating this sooner.

Since my last post I've been training in London, getting to know the team and how the organisation works. My flights have been cancelled and rearranged and I've been shopping for a lot of new kit.

My training hasn't stopped since completing the walk and yesterday I went out alone in the wind and the rain to test out the gear that will be coming with me to Rwanda. What started off as a leisurely stroll along the coast path turned into a mission of a hike in wind and driving rain. I thoroughly enjoyed it though. Keep checking back for more updates.